The Second Glimpse of Dresden

After a long and pensive ride from Venice, we found ourselves in Germany again. Guten Morgen, Deutschland! You just know the Autobahn when you are on one. There was something reassuring about coming here now after a string of romantic destinations we had visited and seen colours changing dramatically from bluest blue to menacingly grey. It felt almost as if we had had our feet back on the ground. Our final overnight trip ran smoothly and we were starting to get travel blues already knowing it was not too long till we had to set out on the journey back. We stopped for a nice German breakfast somewhere outside Dresden. It was a really brisk morning and we knew this substantial meal would keep us going through that last but one day of our travels. I felt a bit German (which to me is nothing compared to the way I had been feeling over the last couple of days soaking up all the romance) in this authentic diner. I found myself really spoilt for choice and thanks to the guide for an excellent food suggestion because that goulash soup was fabulous and I even attempted to cook one back at home! Well, if anything, it bore a strong resemblance to our national dish called borsch which we found ourselves craving for at that point. After the visit to Venice, I had to struggle to keep all the cravings I was having at the moment in check but this is what you do, I guess. Munching away at my what looked a bit too much for an ordinary breakfast, I was marvelling at the spot-on service and also felt my travel records starting taking shape in my mind and that’s how I knew the most romantic bits of this trip were now over… A bunch of cheerful elderly German fellow travellers standing outside the diner made me contemplate what I would love to be if I live to be their age. I’d sure want to be able to afford to go back to this exact place for this exact meal…
A quick ride later, we found ourselves in the heart of Dresden, in Theaterplatz. Early morning here in the centre of Dresden. It felt like something that had already happened at around the same time a year ago. I looked around to see everything in place – the buildings, the sky and the feel… But this time around we would enjoy the place on our own. I love that sense of familiarity you get after the awkwardness and insecurity of the first visit is over and you start feeling comfortable when it’s just you and the city… Zwinger was just a short walk from Theaterplatz but I felt so pleased with myself for knowing my way around now. There was almost no one here, except for a few early birds who came here too. I felt like running around, screaming with joy and I don’t know why I did… No guide to follow, the green grass (just to match my mental image of the Mediterranean) was all I seemed to need to be content with myself and where I was in and I was certainly in a good place! “Remember when we first came here we saw crowds of people coming right out of there?” I never loved to reminisce so much in my life… The views of the complex from the balcony were also reminiscent! The whole space inside the Zwinger was just beautiful and that was all I had to say really! It was as if I had just recovered from Venice and to see Dresden… It all had a dreamlike taste to it.
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We popped into the Old Masters’ Gallery because we had some unfinished business with it. We needed to buy an art watch we failed to get the first time we came. Well, we ended up not getting any because those they had on sale at the moment weren’t good but I got hold of a lovely book about the Old Masters’ Gallery that we visited during our first visit and I think I might be developing an interest in art, which, I think, is essential in order to become a sophisticated human being!
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There was a little time left before we were due to go outside the city for a bit of shopping and we went down to the Elbe bank to enjoy the early morning view. We were doing so to the sound of the Russian language being spoken by people passing by and someone playing Katyusha, a legendary wartime song. A bit of Russia in the heart of Dresden seemed out of place but it might be just me… There was something reassuring about the views of the river we got and it felt safe to be in Germany. This area of Dresden is quite small and you don’t need too much time to get an idea of what it is like. It was time to wrap up our little tour and meet up with the rest of the group.
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Our shopping experience outside the city was pretty average and probably we should have spent this time exploring more of the city instead. But that was an experience anyway and I did get a new bag which is always good news for a lady. Danke, Dresden!
It was going to be several hours before we found ourselves in Poland again.

Elbflorenz (Dresden)

They say that life is not the breaths you take but the moments that take your breath away. I believe I had one of those moments when we arrived in Dresden which was about 3 hours’ drive away from Berlin. It was almost midnight and it looked as though we had lost our way because we seemed to be driving around the same old buildings that looked like hospitals or some other social institutions. That was definitely not the kind of Dresden I’d been expecting to see. And then out of the darkness of the night that was setting in and gloominess of impersonal buildings popped up a view that was definitely a breath-taker for me. That was absolutely extraordinary to see an iconic view of Dresden which I previously saw in pictures by night. I felt tears coming to my eyes and I think that particular view instantly got me fall in love with what I was to see the next day. Unfortunately I didn’t take a picture but this is pretty much what it was like 152_163_original
As I said, Dresden looked very calm and serene and I don’t think we saw a single person walking the streets as we were driving to the hotel where we were staying for the night. It was a big change from Berlin which to me now seemed more and more vibrant and full of life.
Our hotel looked quite nice and as the night before, we couldn’t wait to get into bed and get a good night’s sleep and let all the impressions of the day sink in. Our initial reaction when we walked into our room was nothing but “Wow!”. Dresden is often referred to one of the world’s cultural landmarks and even our room in what I guess was an ordinary hotel looked like a little work of art with nice furniture, pictures and curtains to match. That was unbelievably beautiful and we immediately went on tour of the rest of our room and we definitely loved what we saw. I found a Bible lying in the wardrobe and for a moment I felt uncomfortable thinking that some insanely religious people might have been staying in this room before but then I thought I didn’t mind that as long as I was in this lovely room. I was getting ready for bed when I found out that my mp3 player was missing…. I went through my bag over and over again and it was nowhere to be found… I was getting panicky and then I realized I must have left it under the pillow in Slubice the night before when I was listening to some radio before bed… I really hated myself for leaving it behind in Poland… That was so precious to me because even though it was just a piece of metal or something, that had been with me for a good couple of years and eventually came to be a tiny part of me because I love listening to music. Well, that was it… A tiny part of me was left behind in Poland and I was wondering if it was already found by someone under that pillow… I was thinking how I proved with my own example that Russians were way too careless and carefree when they are on holiday. This player would definitely get me through long bus trips between the cities and now that it was gone forever, I knew they were going to be really boring and I couldn’t make a point of listening to foreign radio stations late at night before bed. I felt really sad and was somewhat ashamed of telling my sister and friend because I knew they would probably make fun of me because I thought I was the only person out of the entire group who had their personal things lost on the first night at a hotel. Well, after a shower I was sitting there in a dim lit hotel room and browsing some of the brochures that were kindly left on the desk for us and actually felt German and my university degree seemed to come in handy. When I was already in my comfy bed, I couldn’t sleep because I was thinking how stupid it was of me to have left that mp3 player under the pillow… This is what I usually did back at home but I had to remember that those hotel rooms weren’t my home after all. And then I thought since there was probably nothing I could do to get my player back, I might get a new and a better one (that one was rather old) here in Germany where I thought I could get a good value for money. So what if this tiny part of me was to be replaced by a new German one? I loved this idea…
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After what was an absolutely delicious and substantial breakfast, we set off for a tour of the historical centre of Dresden. Our tour started in Theaterplatz (Theatre Square) that featured some of the city’s key sights. I knew about the bombing raid of 1945 which killed about 25 thousands of Dresdeners and saw lots of beautiful and imposing buildings of the city destroyed to ashes. Just standing there taking in the square which looked quite small but very impressive made me contemplate the fragility of beauty and how it can be ruined and destroyed within the space of hours…. It was unbelievable how all those explosives were falling from this purely blue sky to cause unprecedented damage to the cultural heritage of the city and to leave thousands of lives scarred forever… But the way the city centre was painstakingly restored to its former glory proves that even when beauty is monstrously destroyed, it can still be restored to something new and amazing if enough effort and dedication is put into it… There is no way you can piece the broken glass together but what we saw there in that square right in front of our own eyes proved that even if the scars and wounds are still there, there is always a fresh beginning and a new lease of life for those who keep faith. Even though it took decades to get some of the major buildings restored from the smallest fragments, it finally happened and some of the former beauty survived and it certainly was a privilege to see the city so lovely and alive…
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Dresden Castle, which was one of the oldest buildings in the city, was on our left and looked so enigmatically beautiful.
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Semperoper, a concert hall, looked just amazing. SAM_1813
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Zwinger, a breathtaking palace complex, was on our right and we had a chance to see its courtyards later on. Those three buildings seemed to dominate the square. It was really fascinating to be listening to our tour guide who spoke a very nice Russian even though she looked and behaved so German. She seemed to love her city a lot and happy to share some of its history with us.
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We were shown the Procession of Princes (Fürstenzug) which was a 102-m long mural which showed the rulers of Saxony in chronological order. That was made of the famous Meisen porcelain… I wish I could get a porcelain item but I knew I wouldn’t probably be able to afford it… But Dresden is big on porcelain and that’s a fact. I wish we could have more time to take a closer look at the wall and learn more about the history of the city we were visiting…
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But we had to move further on along the narrow streets of the city centre… There were again almost no one here except us and that certainly made our visit feel even more magical… Then we got to see the building which I had only heard and read about for my German exams… That was Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche), an astonishing piece of architecture which again dominated the city’s skyline after it was completely restored several years ago. That was absolutely breathtaking and I never had any idea how magnificent it was!
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We took a walk of some more of the area and saw some fancy hotels in one of which if I remember correctly Barack Obama was staying… We also noticed some Soviet-era pictures on some buildings and that was a reminder for us of where we came from…
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As the tour guide continued her story, we wandered into the courtyard of Zwinger which again made us feel as if we were royalty taking a leisurely stroll of the lovely garden… The entire area looked so green and Dresden is said to be one of the greenest cities of Europe and I guess this was not by chance I was wearing green that day so that I looked really nice in the setting. All those fountains (I have a passion for those) and pavillions made it all just a brilliant experience and Europe was feeling almost like home to me… That was all so refined but in no way pompous and that certainly appealed to me.
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At the end of our excursion we were to visit the Old Masters’ Gallery (Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister) featuring one of the world’s most acclaimed paintings “Sistine Madonna” by Raphael which celebrated its 500th anniversary in 2012. This is why there were pictures of her everywhere we went. The gallery was in Semperoper which was a part of the State Art Collection (Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden) that included eleven more museums which we certainly weren’t lucky to visit that day.
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On our way to Dresden, we were told by the guide tour to look into Madonna’s eyes because these are the eyes that are said to haunt you forever once you look into them. So I was really looking forward to experiencing the painting first-hand. Even though I’m not an art enthusiast, I was so excited to be visiting one of the world’s most significant collection of art and seeing some of the paintings I previously saw in pictures come alive… I know some people might find art tedious and boring and think it has nothing to do with the lives that ordinary people are living, I, for one, think we need art in our lives just the way our body needs energy to become stronger and more resilient. Art can fuel our souls and like a remedy makes both emotional and physical wounds heal… And it doesn’t matter if most of us don’t really have the appreciation of art and are totally confused and perplexed by those works of art and genuinely have no idea what the fuss is all about… We may come to understand what seemed pointless at some point… What we need to do is open our eyes to beautiful things and let them change the way we are… Some of the pictures we saw were extraordinarily beautiful and impressive and I could feel beauty and art walk into my life and soul… “Sleeping Venus” by Giorgione, “The Tribute Money” by Titian, “Chocolate Girl” by Jean-Etienne Liotard (I have a magnet of it), “Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window” by Johannes Vermeer…, etc. That must have been enough to blow the mind of an art enthusiast away… It felt as if we and all the people that were there to enjoy (or at least trying to understand) the art were one big eye… I don’t even know why I should bring that up but I remember seeing a teenage gay couple taking a tour of the gallery too… I think the fact that amongst all this exquisite beauty me and I believe some more people from our group happened to notice them and admittedly got a bit disgusted at the view (even though I’m not homophobic) suggests how way behind the rest of the developed world we are… I should think that wasn’t by chance that I saw them at that place… We were close to the highlight of our visit which was Raphael’s “Sistine Madonna”. That was a massive painting and crowds of people were standing looking at it. To be perfectly honest, as much as I persevered in looking into her eyes, I can’t say I was astonished or felt her look back at me which I expected would have happened if there was something I saw in those troubled eyes… I didn’t know it before the guide told us that they were troubled at all… She provided some commentary which certainly did help me to get a better understanding of what the idea behind the painting was… That had a distinct religious message and which might have been what put me off. But I was happy I was given a chance to lay my eyes on the real Madonna and get exposed to art in a way that was absolutely new and magical to me.
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When the tour of the gallery was over, we could stay there for s bit longer and take a closer look at the collection which was structured using different colours of the walls. The beauty of art was just a glance away from us and that felt surreal… That was really educational and for the time I spent in there I felt a better or at least a more intellectual person who chose not to be ignorant…. The whole collection was not as large as we expected and we tried to take a moment to look at each of the paintings which might have been our way of showing our appreciation of what was indisputably amazing. It was a bit confusing to see the cherubs from “Sistine Madonna” (those two whose figures are distinctly seen in the painting) enjoy a glory of their own and were featured in bottles of champagne, magnets, ash trays… It made me assume people might not take this piece of painting seriously despite all those glowing reviews it got… Anyway, it was something I really failed to understand…
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It was time for us to leave the gallery which was truly wonderful. We were now on a mission to get that missing part of me, i.e. a new mp3 player…
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I knew this might be a problem as my German wasn’t up to a high standard which I suspected would be required in purchasing a technical device… How on earth would I be explaining what kind of a player I was looking for? I felt I wasn’t ready to rise up to the challenge. That must have been the fact that I had a degree in German which as surprising and strange as it may seem, made me feel so insecure. But we were definitely looking forward to checking out Altmarkt which was one of the biggest shopping venues of the city. I think that wasn’t too long before I found what I thought was perfect for me in terms of the price and technical features but I knew there were certain things I needed to get more details on and I walked up to a shop assistant hoping she spoke English. I’m ashamed to admit that was a bit scary to go out there and do what I’ve been learning to do for years and years. At that moment I had a feeling there was no language in the world I was fluent in and I knew I would be a disaster. I asked the shop assistant if I could take a closer look at the player and all I heard her say was “Ich verstehe Englisch nicht” (I don’t understand English). It was so embarrassing! Looking back, I realize I could have tried to speak German with her and might have been a success but I think I was caught up in the moment and had my mind go blank… Then my friend who also has a degree in German made an attempt to talk to another shop assistant because now my sister decided she needed to buy something. We couldn’t believe we were so terrible! We couldn’t understand a word he was saying! We love to believe that was his accent that prevented us from understanding him. For a moment I felt I was English and no one around me understoood my tongue… Overwhelmed with the sense of guilt and shame, we made our way to the check-out counter and thought this is where we should put it to end and rely on the quality of German products and purchase them without „ausprobieren“ (testing) them. If only we had thought of this word before a woman at the check-out counter said it… We understood everything she was saying and that made us feel a little better about ourselves… We still had a long way to go when it came to German… A visit to the shop which taught us to face our fears was a perfect motivation to improve our knowledge… And of course I got a new mp3 player which I’m still really happy about. We spent some more time just wandering the shopping center which looked pretty much like those we have back home except it didn’t feel too crowded and you didn’t get people giving you weird looks for no reason the way they do in Russia.
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All we had time for was a meal… And we felt we needed it badly at that point… We were hoping to get to try some of German specialties such as Bratwurst (fry sausage), Currywurst (a roasted pork sausage) and of course beer which we didn’t get to try the day before in Berlin. We were disappointed not to find anything but some traditional food that we could eat back home. There was a stall which seemed to have some German food on sale but it didn’t look trustworthy. Now we regret not having bought something from it because I don’t think we could have got a food poisoning in the centre of Dresden. I think that was just our Russian thinking taking over us. So we ended up getting some pasta and beer which were just delicious! What we noticed about restaurants and cafes in Germany is that a waiter doesn’t not go back to get the bill but they wait for you to pay it straght away … First we couldn’t understand why she didn’t leave after she brought the bill and thought there was something wrong with us that made us look not trustworthy… Only later did we find out why….
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We had some little more time in Dresden. We got back from where we started. I was sitting there on the stairs holding on to a bag with my new mp3 player looking at Dresden Castle, Semperoper, Zwinger and that incredibly blue sky and was wishing for nothing like what Dresden had to go through back in 1945 to happen to it ever again. Will this beauty be able to stand another test? Now that I’ve seen it, I felt responsible and really cared about what was right in front of my eyes… Germany was the country I’d love to spend more time in. I couldn’t believe that was all going to end there and a view of Dresden castle against the blue sky and that iconic view of Dresden by night would be all I have left of Dresden… Well, I shouldn’t forget a new mp3 player of course… Everytime I turn it on, I feel the memory of this city revoke in my mind.
I’ve made so many beautiful memories in Germany and surprisingly got to love German just for the fact for those two days I’d been walking the streets which were injected with German. I also learnt to be more optimistic and know that if something goes missing, you can find a way to replace it and if there’s that accent you don’t understand, there will be one which will be so much easier to understand.
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